Thursday, 16 February 2012

Absolute fave shows from New York Fashion Week A/W 2012

So it's the start of Fashion Weeks! Basically a whole month of shows across New York, London, Milan and Paris. I will be giving a preview of the best shows throughout the weeks. Firstly, I've picked my favourite show from each day of NYFW, faaaar to many to write about them all so I've narrowed it down to 8 shows.

DAY 1 - BCBG Max Azria

This collection included lots of artistic colour blocking in shades of burgundy, navy, white, brown and black with coral, turquoise and purple popping up on certain garments. Lots of vertical stripes and blocks lengthened the clothes along with the flowing fabrics of chiffon and mesh. Leather and foxlike fur added toughness to the outerwear coinciding with the femininity of pleated skirts, waisted dresses and sheer panels. The whole collection was very similar but the leather accessories and fur finishes broke up the repetitive nature of colour blocking.


Young designer Jason Wu began his Fall/Winter 2012 with very wearable, tough military jackets in dark olive green. Topped with lace, studs, black and leather belts, it gave a bold edge which was a change from Jason Wu’s light ladylike Spring/Summer 2012 line. The only similarity was the contrasting of black with the main colour, most recently olive green but it was cream for Spring and Summer!
As the show progressed we began to see pops of red and tangerine orange coming into the collection – these colours seeing to be popular for A/W 2012. Jackets, mid-length dresses, trousers all drenched in these rich tones whilst keeping a tough edge. Even the evening dresses and pencil skirts near the end of the show lacked Wu’s usual femininity. Another key theme was the oriental Chinese flower print which was featured either in full print or as detail on dresses, jackets and suits in shades of gold and black with added embellishment.

Key Looks

KEY PIECES – Quilted jackets, capes, fur collars, high neck dresses and patterned suits.

DAY 3 - Alexander Wang

This collection was filled with lots of bold burgundy (colour to watch this season), black and white pieces, focusing mainly on outerwear. Lots of long trench coats, short biker jackets and raincoats in almost shiny, worn leather were showcased. Famous model Gisele Bundchen stormed the catwalk in one of these jackets teamed with black knee high boots which most of models were wearing. Polo necks were seen throughout the show, like many collections this season but Wang put an interesting take on them, lengthening the necks to cover the models mouth like a mask. If that wasn’t enough they were in a mesh, string vest-like pattern. Another intriguing feature was the hoods that were worn with these, coupling them together to look like a sort of helmet. Nearer the end of the show we saw strong mid length shift dresses in white and black with near full arm length gloves which added an elegance to the overall  solid look of the collection.

DAY 4 - Diane Von Furstenburg

I’ve always loved Diane Von Furstenburg’s collections, mainly the Spring/Summer ones as they’ll always so bright and colourful! But this Fall 2012 collection doesn’t disappoint, alongside the slightly muted palette of burgundys,  greys, purples and reds there was a pop of tropical blues, flamingo pinks and lime green! She just couldn’t resist!
The collection called ‘Rendevouz’ was said to be ‘bold and daring with humour’ which was represented with the contrast of colours, what Von Furstenburg does best, but toned down for the Fall and Winter.
The models repping sleek, side scored hair wore a mixture of mid length pencil skirts, jersey dresses, polo necks (which im def feeling for winter, bring back the 90s) suits and jumpsuits, with touch of glamour in black sequins, leather and long gloves.

DAY 5 - Betsey Johnson

This is undoubtedly my FAAAAAV collection for Fall 2012. Betsey Johnsons 1960’s rock ‘n’ roll inspired collection is right up my street, if I was designing it was definitely mirror this collection.
Opening to a remix of The Beatles ‘Eleanor Rigby’ sets the mood perfectly for what was instore. Betsey Johnson has always been known for her crazy trademark hippie style and this collections 1960’s vibe with a ‘Betseymania’ edge doesn’t disappoint.
Taking influence from the Stones, Jimmy Hendrix and the Beatles, we saw a mix of patterned shift dresses over polo necks, knee high boots, white round framed glasses, pop art prints, sparkly hotpants and many a baker boy hat, well known trademark of the legend John Lennon. She executed around 50 looks under the names of Quadrophenia, Sgt. Pepper and Warhol pop wear displays Johnson outrageous, highly focused collection.
And never one to disappoint, Betsey Johnson ran down the catwalk and did her trademark catwalk ending in the splits, followed by her models dressed as cheerleaders with pom poms.

DAY 6 - Vera Wang
Vera Wang opened her Fall 2012 show with light camel and khaki jackets, knits and long vests, colours which were very consistent throughout the show. But soon we saw bright Tangerine orange coming alive, a colour which is being talked about greatly recently. Also black faux fur, flowing chiffons in blacks that were tinted with light blue and gray, contrasting with the light camel at the beginning of the show.
Vera Wang told a backstage reporter that she liked mixing ‘boyishness’ next to something ‘sensual’, showcased in her silk chiffon dresses with thigh high boots – almost a grunge effect. The key feature of this whole collection was definetly the sheerness of majority of the garments, whether it be dresses, skirts or tops.
There were many dresses which could be seen on the up coming red carpet events, although a little riskier than usual with sheer chiffons with feather detail. For example the tangerine v-neck maxi dress, highly sophisticated yet sensual.
A step away from her amazing bridal dresses, Vera Wang shows she can still succeed in a ready-to-wear collection.

DAY 7 - Michael Kors

Michael Kors managed to add a luxury to things we would wear in our everyday lives in his AW/2012 collection. Arran knits teamed with flowing sequin skirts, burnt orange plaid, houndstooth trousers, vibrant coral stripe poncho skirts and leather trench coats. It was an ecletic mix which is up there with my love for Jason Wu’s collection. Glamour magazine described it as ‘rustic glam’.
The main colours shown were black, shades of red and orange, cream and camel within a large range of patterns and textures including plaid, tweed, fur and lace. The collection progressed into 1920s inspired flapper girl evening dresses, both midi and maxi, in gold and black sequins. Longer at the back than the front, similar to the other dresses and skirts near the beginning of the show. Not forgetting the show stopping tangerine gown, high neck and long sleeves adds charming elegance to this Oscar worthy dress.  Overall an ecletic mix of heritage and glam!

DAY 8 - Ralph Lauren

'I have always loved the heritage and romance of England. My collection for Fall 2012 is about modern glamour inspired by timeless character and refined elegance of an authentic way of living' - Ralph Lauren, Associated Press.

Opening the show to the theme tune of 'Downton Abbey' set the scene to Ralph Lauren's Fall 2012 collection. Although Lauren's lines are always very American, the collections are always very lifestyle and culture orientated which is what its always been about.

Garments were produced in traditional British styles such as tweed, wool, plaid and fair isle. 3 piece trouser suits (very Ralph Lauren-esque), fair isle knitted jumpers, bowler hats, patterned shirts and ties opened the show in navy, green and brown with flashes of jewel topaz, amethyst and sapphire. We even saw some clashing patterns with the added touch of leopard print scarves and jackets. One look could have over 4 different patterns at any one time which was strangely successful. Flat caps, peacock feathers and pocket squares topped of this English country, yet very Ralph Lauren, section of the show.

It then progressed into more luxurious velvet fabrics in red and black trouser suits with diamond collars. We then began to see leather pleated skirts, dresses and jackets with gold finishes. Evening dresses completed the show in black sequins, jewel pinks, premium golds and feather detail. Ralph Lauren proves once again he can stick to his usual style but can produce some of the most beautiful dresses. Genius.



No comments

Post a Comment

© THEM + US. All rights reserved.